Basic Track Set up for 2012 kit (#154)
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Basic Track Set up for 2012 kit (#154)
So last year was my first and I had overheating then head work issues and misc. weird stuff. Now, the mechanicals are finally sorted so I want to know where I'm at or should be for track set up. I run central CA tracks like Thunderhill (3 miles 15 turns with some good elevation change and target speeds varying from 45 to 100+ in turns and 120 on the straight). Without driver weight and nearly empty tank here's what I have right now:
camber front: 0.75 Neg deg rear: 0.5 pos deg.
toe front: 1/16: IN; rear: 0 (this is at the 27.5 in. long toe plate; not the tire circumference)
castor; no adjustment.
This is close to what I had for years on my standard (1983 design) Formula Mazda except for slight toe out in front. What would you guys recommend?
camber front: 0.75 Neg deg rear: 0.5 pos deg.
toe front: 1/16: IN; rear: 0 (this is at the 27.5 in. long toe plate; not the tire circumference)
castor; no adjustment.
This is close to what I had for years on my standard (1983 design) Formula Mazda except for slight toe out in front. What would you guys recommend?
Re: Basic Track Set up for 2012 kit (#154)
I happened to be talking to Scott about a part so I asked him what is the recommended set up for the 2012 chassis, Pre-complete switchover on design. He said:
What tires are you running on?
The rear stick axle has no adjustment really. So straight toe, 0 camber.
For slicks
Front should have .75 to 1.25 negative camber and 0 to 1/16" toe in.
If you are on an A7,R7, or more of a track tire, you want about 2 degrees camber in the front.
So there you have it, right from the horse's mouth. Sounds good to me.
What tires are you running on?
The rear stick axle has no adjustment really. So straight toe, 0 camber.
For slicks
Front should have .75 to 1.25 negative camber and 0 to 1/16" toe in.
If you are on an A7,R7, or more of a track tire, you want about 2 degrees camber in the front.
So there you have it, right from the horse's mouth. Sounds good to me.
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