Step 1: Written Instruction guide on build procedure

Congratulations on purchasing your new Stalker.  We are going to start from the beginning on how to use the videos and guides.  There is a lot of information available for all the different combinations of chassis, body, and drivetrain configurations.  This guide starts with a Level 1 kit build.    

1st.  Make sure you have clicked on the correct chassis/engine setup you are using.  

2nd. After choosing your chassis you will first fit the aluminum.  Follow the guides on fitting the aluminum and fiberglass.  Almost every Stalker is the same in this area.  The different rear styles (Classis vs. Mspec) will mount differently but we recommend installing the rear suspension first to get a nice uniform gap around the wheel.  

3rd. After fitting aluminum and fiberglass (minus the rear end) it’s time to assemble the suspension.  Follow the video guides and assembling the suspension and steering.

Level 2

4th. Pedals, hydraulics, and brakes.  Follow the instructions for installing the pedals, master cylinders, and hydraulic lines.  On the standard width cars, it is advised to put the clutch pedal at an angle, parallel with the outside tube for maximum foot room.  On the XL chassis, you can mount them up against the firewall with the clutch slave on engine compartment side.  

5th.  Rear differential and axles.  Install the rear differential with the 2 14mm bolts in the rear and a ½” bolt and lock nut in the front.  Remove the upper ball joint bolt on the rear upright.  Pop the CV axles into place (they should click in) and then slide through the outer wheel bearing.  Grease helps here.  Don’t be alarmed if it doesn’t slide all the way to the outside, you may need to tighten the large nut to finish pulling it into place.  

6th. You can now fit the rear end fiberglass of your car with a wheel in place on the rear. Follow the guide for your style of car.  Keep in mind this will need to be removed for the fuel tank.

Level 3, At this point you can disassemble and powder coat and paint your parts.  It is not abnormal to complete the build minus fluids before disassembly either.

6.5  Reinstall Floor pans, all three foot well panels, firewall shelf, side panels, seat back, and hip panels.  Then reinstall the above parts, leaving off any fiberglass parts.  

If you have purchased a Level 4, this the point where your build starts.

7th.  Pick your engine.  Do you have a 3.8 V6 or a LS V8?  Choose the appropriate folder with your engine/transmission combination.  Follow the instructions on preparing your drivetrain for the car.  The internal slave cylinder works the same with both but the LS V8 slave cylinder comes with a spacer.  

8th.  After doing the appropriate mods needed for your engine/transmission to work properly, assemble the two unit and install in the car.  Follow the guides and tip manuals on installing the drivetrain.

9th. Install the driveshaft.  From underneath the car, slip the drive shaft yoke into the splines.  (apply a little ATF fluid on the seal).  Then push back into place on the differential.  The differential has a centering hole that is a tight fit.  Be patient and use some tapping to get the driveshaft into place on the differential.  Use (3) 12mm bolts with nylock nuts to attach.  

10th. Install fuel system.  The custom made aluminum tank for your stalker is designed to go in from the side.  The tabs will line up with others on the frame.  Take some ¾” heater hose and cut to length for each tube the tank mounts on.  Then cut a slit down the tube and wrap the hose around the tube.  Mount the tank to the car with ¼” bolts and nylock nuts.  Tighten the bolts until the tank is tight against the rubber, but the aluminum tabs are not tight against the frame.  This will allow some expansion/contraction for the tank.  Then follow the guide on mounting the regulator, and routing the lines to your engine.

11th.  Install cooling system.  Depending on your engine/radiator setup, follow the appropriate guides.

12th. Install the exhaust headers and mufflers.  Put the headers on with all the bolts just barely snug but not tight so the header can wiggle a bit.  If it is the final assembly, remember your GASKETS.  If it is not your final assembly, DO NOT USE THE GASKETS.  Then, slip the muffler over the collector so the strap is parallel to the ground and the pipe is turned outward on the car.  Drill a hole through the strap into the floor of the car.  Attach with a rubber mount (a ½” piece of hose over a bolt works) into the floor pan.  Tighten the muffler clamp onto the header (3/8” bolt) then tighten your header bolts to the engine.  
 
13th.  Install the throttle pedal.  On the V6 and LS1, there is a direct mechanical linkage to attach to the throttle.  It is a “push, pull” effect.  For the V6, position the arm straight up, and attach a linkage to the throttle body.  For the LS1, It will need to tilt forward.  After this part is attached, position your pedal as desired and attach with a roll pin, screw, or bolt.  See guides and pictures for more details.  For LS3s and V8s with electric throttle, the electric throttle is mounted on the firewall and the mechanical linkage attached to it.  

14th.  Positioning the Air Filter, coil packs, battery, ECU and fuse block.  Some choose to run the filter inside car and others don’t.  Inside is cooler air but much louder.  If you are using heat or A/C, the filter inside the car will make it ineffective.  When positioning the filter, it is good to have your battery, fuse block, and coil packs handy too.  You want to make sure it will all fit.  On the V6 the packs fit nicely near the throttle body.  The battery can be mounted in many places.    It largely depends on the size of your battery.  Make sure it is easily accessible.  Good places are on the firewall shelf, on the frame in front of passenger foot well (make sure it has plenty of clearance to exhaust and can exit out the bottom), or in the passenger foot well.  The fuse block and ECU should be mounted away from weather.  Inside and on top of the tunnel is a good place but make sure you are happy with how accessible the fuses are.  Mounting them on the firewall shelf should be fine as well.  

15th Install gauges, switches and lights.  When installing the gauges, make sure mark their positions from behind the dash.  It is handy to cut out circles and tape them to the dash to determine your layout but make sure you do not drill holds where metal tubes (or steering heim joint) are located.  Use hole saws to drill holes for gauges instead of a jig saw for maximum protection of the dash surface.  Mount your lights according the guides on your style of car.  With all the main electrical devices installed, you can route your wiring.  

16th. Seat belts and seats.  Install the harness in the appropriate mounting holes.  Then position and install the seats.  Follow the instructions on your slider if using a slider.  Otherwise, bolts into the floor work fine.          

17th.  Fluids.  Fill your coolant system with 50/50 antifreeze.  Follow the recommended “burping” procedure for your engine.  Fill the engine with oil to proper spec.  Fill differential with 75W90 NON-SYNTHETIC gear oil.  MAKE SURE YOU ADD “REDLINE FRICTION MODIFIER” to the oil.  Should take a 1 quart and 1 tube of friction modifier.  Fill the transmission.  There is always a fill hole and drain hole on a transmission.  Make sure you make an access hole in your tunnel to do this at a later date.  Remove the fill plug and fill the transmission with a funnel and tube until fluid runs out of the hole.  Use the proper fluid labeled on the transmission.  
T-56 uses almost 4 quarts of ATF
Fill the clutch master with brake fluid.  Bleed the master cylinder by cracking the bleed screw until fluid runs out smoothly with no bubbles.  Using the bleed line attached to the slave cylinder and a brake bleeder kit, put some fluid inside a brake bleed cup.  Loosen the bleed screw on the line, and submerge the entire end of the line in the cup of fluid.  Pump the clutch pedal until pressure is felt.  Tighten the bleed screw and check operation of the clutch.  This will get the clutch system almost air free.  With the help of a second hand, finish bleeding with a proper “open and push, close and release” method.  Fill brake master with fluid.  Crack BOTH TOP bleed screws loose on the front left caliper, let sit and use gravity to work the fluid through the lines.  After fluid comes out, close the screws and repeat at each corner.  Now, (using a friend, or brake bleeding tool) bleed each caliper and each TOP bleed screw starting with the inside one then the outside on each corner of the car.

18th Check to make sure all of your bolts are tight on the car.  Make sure all your hoses are connected (check all FUEL LINES closely) and there are no leaks on the car.  Bolt on wheels and fill with fuel.  Before attempting to start the car.  Disconnect the fuel injector connectors.  Turn over the engine for only 5-10 seconds at a time until there is oil pressure.  Take time to feel the starter to make sure it is not getting to hot.  Allow at least 30 seconds to minutes between cranks.  (may want a battery charger on the battery during this).  Once your gauge reads oil pressure, hook up your injectors and fire it up!  

Always remember to drive a car lightly when first assembled and to properly break in the drivetrain components before any hard performance driving.  Have Fun and be safe!

Scott Minehart

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