Replacing an inner CV boot

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Replacing an inner CV boot

Post by XL22 on Tue Jul 07, 2015 2:32 pm

The inner CV joint boot on my driver's side axle had a pin-hole leak that splattered 1mm droplets of grease inside the rear of the car.  Here's what I did to swap the boot.  The Drive Shaft Shop provided the replacement boot kit, which contained a new boot, 2 oiteker clamps, and a ziplock bag of grease.

The most time consuming part of this is really the suspension disassembly & reassembly.  Removing the axle is pretty easy.  I gave it a "half-grunt" pull, while holding onto the spindle, and it popped out of the differential on the first try.  This method works because there is snap ring that holds the joint together; meaning, you're not relying on just the rubber boot to hold the joint together while pulling on it.  I left the spindle connected to the axle (didn't remove the axle nut).  It took me about 4 hours, working at a relaxed pace.  Oh, and I used about half a roll of paper towels to wipe off grease as I disassembled the joint.

Here's a picture of the suspect area with the axle removed from the differential:


And now with the clamp removed:


Cut the boot in half and removed it:


Remove the big snap ring, needle nose pliers works fine.  It's not held in with much tension.  I did have to clean out a ton of grease to be able to see the edge of the ring


Outer race removed:


Inner race, another snap ring needs to be removed


Once you start cleaning off the grease, the steel ball bearings will come out.  I pushed on them from the inside, and they are easily pushed out, as long as the grease has been removed.  The grease does an amazing job of keeping the balls in place.


All disassembled and ready for the new boot


In the middle of reassembly.  Note the direction of both of the inner parts of the race.


I filled up the outer race with the grease and slid it onto the inner race and then used the tile nippers to tighten the clamps.  Notice how the new clamp is much narrower than the original:

<EDIT>: Tighten the smaller clamp after the axle has been reinstalled.  Why?  Because the axle will need to move in or out inside the CV joint as you're installing the axle into the car.  With both clamps tight, it will either create a little vacuum or balloon out.  If you wait to tighten the clamp after it's been installed, you can pull on the small end of the boot to burp it so that the air can equalize.  Then, tighten the small clamp.

If you have to re-clamp and need replacement Oetiker clamps, you can use:

  • CV35, aka Oetiker 16300023, on the small end
  • CV104, aka Oetiker 16300035, on the big end

<END EDIT>



Last edited by XL22 on Mon Oct 05, 2015 9:07 am; edited 2 times in total

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Re: Replacing an inner CV boot

Post by Stalker Guru on Thu Jul 09, 2015 9:07 am

great write up!
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Re: Replacing an inner CV boot

Post by jtmineha on Mon Aug 10, 2015 4:59 pm

I'm in the process of replacing my outer CV-Boots. You aren't lying about using half a roll of paper towels. It is probably the messiest automotive repair work I have ever done.
For part number reference, the outer boots that came with the axles are Interparts BT-46. But I couldn't find where they sell that brand, so I am using a Dorman 614-002 (from 95 Ford Probe GT 6cyl inboard).
Update: Well the Dorman part doesn't look like it will work. It doesn't have the rib feature on the inner liner to fit into the groove on the joint, so it just falls right off when you try to tighten the clamp. I ordered the proper boot (BT-46) from Driveshaftshop.com today, so hopefully I'll be back up and running before the end of the week.
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Re: Replacing an inner CV boot

Post by XL22 on Mon Oct 05, 2015 8:57 am

jtmineha wrote:I'm in the process of replacing my outer CV-Boots. You aren't lying about using half a roll of paper towels. It is probably the messiest automotive repair work I have ever done.
For part number reference, the outer boots that came with the axles are Interparts BT-46. But I couldn't find where they sell that brand, so I am using a Dorman 614-002 (from 95 Ford Probe GT 6cyl inboard).
Update: Well the Dorman part doesn't look like it will work. It doesn't have the rib feature on the inner liner to fit into the groove on the joint, so it just falls right off when you try to tighten the clamp.  I ordered the proper boot (BT-46) from Driveshaftshop.com today, so hopefully I'll be back up and running before the end of the week.

Noticed today a pinhole leak in the outer CV boot on the the passenger side. The hole is in the middle of the accordion, on one of the inner portions. No clue how it got there or if it's been there since day 1. Will be calling The Driveshaft Shop today.

I haven't researched an outer boot replacement yet. Any gotchas, tricks, and/or special tools required?

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Re: Replacing an inner CV boot

Post by XL22 on Mon Oct 05, 2015 9:08 am

On the inner boot replacement, I added a step about burping the small end of the boot and added part numbers for Oetiker clamps.

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Re: Replacing an inner CV boot

Post by jtmineha on Mon Oct 05, 2015 9:14 am

Nothing really different then doing the inner boot. You'll need to have the right boot and clamp/crimping tools. But if you've done one before, it's probably the same. The part number for the boot is underneath the big clamp. Might want to double check before you order.
One thing I had to watch was the clearance between the clamp and the upper balljoint bolt. Depending on the type of clamp it may come close to hitting the lower end of the bolt. At least that was a tight fit on my car.
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Re: Replacing an inner CV boot

Post by XL22 on Tue Oct 06, 2015 9:55 am

jtmineha wrote:For part number reference, the outer boots that came with the axles are Interparts BT-46. But I couldn't find where they sell that brand, so I am using a Dorman 614-002 (from 95 Ford Probe GT 6cyl inboard).
Update: Well the Dorman part doesn't look like it will work. It doesn't have the rib feature on the inner liner to fit into the groove on the joint, so it just falls right off when you try to tighten the clamp.  I ordered the proper boot (BT-46) from Driveshaftshop.com today, so hopefully I'll be back up and running before the end of the week.

Looks like I have an older outer boot; they were stamped 'Rockford 440-10', which cross-references to a BT-18. After talking to Driveshaft Shop yesterday & today, they changed to some more durable boots. Replacement boot, clamps, and grease is on the way.

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Re: Replacing an inner CV boot

Post by Brian Degulis on Fri Oct 09, 2015 6:44 am

I had problems with my inner boots when I switched to 15" wheels. Apperantly on big tracks where speeds exceed 140 MPH the higher axle RPM with the smaller wheels was beyond what the boot would take. I found out that if I don't put the axle side clamp on untill the axle is installed and then stretch the boot out as far as I can (making it longer) Then clamp in the stretched position the boots stay together. I think the centrifugal force at the high RPM was causing the boots to expand out. I guess stretching them out more limits that? Several track days now and so far so good.

Brian

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Re: Replacing an inner CV boot

Post by XL22 on Thu Oct 29, 2015 7:38 pm

Finally got around to replacing the outer CV boot today.  It was easier than the inner boot/joint I thought.  A bench vise comes in handy, btw. One difference from the inner joint is that on the outer joint, you hammer the joint off the axle (Thanks for the tip, Jason).  To hammer the joint off the axle, I just used a socket extension and put the 3/8" square end on the part of the race that touches the axle splines.  It only took a few easy whacks; not much muscle required at all.  Once it's off the axle, the outer joint can stay assembled, which is nice.

My replacement boot for the outer joint from The Driveshaft Shop was labeled BT-18.  It feels & looks much thicker than the original Rockford 440-10 boot.

To reinstall the joint, I pushed the ends of the circlip on the axle into the groove then slid the joint onto the axle.  A few easy whacks with the hammer on the outer end of the axle, and it slides on easily.  Clamping the oetiker clamps is the same as the inner joint.  Since the outer joint doesn't move in & out like the inner joint (won't have the vacuum affect), you can clamp both ends of the boot before re-installing the axle.

One of the reasons I love these cars is that this whole job only took 2 hours total.  I had the axle off the car in only 30 minutes Smile, and I even took my time on the CV joint & boot.

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