Classic R #27 Build - Brake Line Installation

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Classic R #27 Build - Brake Line Installation

Post by comled on Sun Mar 27, 2016 8:44 am

After spending a lot of time trying to avoid the subject, I finally made a start on installing the brake lines. I tackled the rear first: it seemed more complicated than the front because the tubing runs are longer and the brake proportioning valve has to be installed. I started by installing the valve. It's in the standard location on the tunnel by the driver and a steel tab is provided on the frame for mounting purposes.


The mounting holes are 1/4" diameter. I had some 1/4-28 x 1 1/2" bolts on hand and these are just the right length to use with a nyloc nut to secure the proportioning valve.


Bolting the proportioning valve into place gives you the reference points to start shaping the brake line itself. The kit includes copper nickel brake line which bends easily with the proper tool. Mine's an HF tool, less than $10 as I remember, and nothing particularly special. In this picture I'm tapping a hole in the frame which will accept the screw from the brake line clamps I'm using.


These are the clamps I selected - from Summit, I think. They are a two-piece aluminum clamp with a screw hole. The screws are M4-0.7 so I'm drilling 3.3mm holes and tapping accordingly. I'm going to powder coat these so there will be no metal-to-metal contact between the clamp and the line.


The first three line clamps and brake line installed running forward toward the master cylinder. The line has to bend around the frame tubes in two places.


I brought the line around the front of the firewall shelf pretty much as the build video suggests. Unfortunately right before this I screwed up and left the brake fitting on the wrong side of the last-but-one bend. There's no way I can recover it so I'll have to make a fresh line (SAE 45 degree double flaring tool and 25' of 3/16" copper nickel brake line already on it's way). When I install that fresh line I will run it a bit closer to the edge of the firewall I think. I took advantage of an existing hole in the firewall shelf to mount a brake line clamp. That hole is labeled so I don't accidentally run a sheet metal screw into it.


I understand from the build video that the middle port on the brake master cylinder drives the rear brakes so that's where the brake line goes. Since I screwed this line up there's no fitting so it's just jammed in there for alignment purposes.


Installing the rear line is similar to the front except that the line has to pass over the diff. Routing needs to take into account the fuel tank so it takes some planning to get the line in the right place.


This is where the line ends up. I find it irksome that there's no support for that big loop of line that runs over the diff so I made a bracket to hold the brake line securely in place.


A piece of 1/8" x 3/4" bar with a bend at each end - this bolts onto the frame above the diff and provides some support for the brake line.


Bracket cleco'd in and a brake line clamp positioned in the middle. I'll drill the inboard mounting hole for this when I'm dismantling in a few weeks prior to sending the frame out for powdercoating.


I put the fuel tank in to make sure it didn't interfere with the brake line. All good. Job done for now. Next up is the front brake line.

-Dave

_________________
2015 Stalker Classic R/L26 in progress
2015 Nissan 370Z
2010 Triumph Bonneville T100
1977 MGB
1973 Norton Commando MkII Interstate
1960 Hammond A100
1949 Ford 8N
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comled

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Re: Classic R #27 Build - Brake Line Installation

Post by comled on Sun Mar 27, 2016 7:31 pm

I started running in the front brake line this morning.


I added the loop per the build video and ran it around the inside of the frame tubes in the engine bay using the same clips I had from the front. Because I have the engine in I don't have access to drill all the necessary holes - I added those to the list of jobs I need to do while dismantling prior to powder coating. All went well until I found that the brake line was way too short to reach the brake master cylinder. I must have chosen the wrong one yesterday for the rear. So I'll have to make a fresh one later this week and use this as a template. D'oh.

-Dave

_________________
2015 Stalker Classic R/L26 in progress
2015 Nissan 370Z
2010 Triumph Bonneville T100
1977 MGB
1973 Norton Commando MkII Interstate
1960 Hammond A100
1949 Ford 8N
avatar
comled

Posts : 124
Join date : 2015-10-07
Location : New Hope, PA

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Re: Classic R #27 Build - Brake Line Installation

Post by comled on Sun Apr 03, 2016 8:28 am

Following the double screw up on brake lines last weekend I made new ones up using a basic flare tool (OTC 4503 Stinger Double Flaring Tool Kit from amazon, $33.80 - a bog standard double flare tool) and a 25' roll of 3/16" brake line, and replaced them on the chassis, managing not to get it wrong this time.


According to the build video the rear port on the master cylinder is for the front brakes and the middle port serves the rear brakes. Anyway, job done. BTW, you can see in this picture the pig's ear I made of attaching the throttle pedal to the arm. That needs tidying up somehow.


Both lines have clamps on the firewall shelf courtesy of existing holes originally drilled for sheet metal screws. I'll run some sort of edge protection over that sharp edge of the firewall shelf where the brake lines wrap around. The brake lines don't actually touch the edge even though it looks that way in the photo.

-Dave

_________________
2015 Stalker Classic R/L26 in progress
2015 Nissan 370Z
2010 Triumph Bonneville T100
1977 MGB
1973 Norton Commando MkII Interstate
1960 Hammond A100
1949 Ford 8N
avatar
comled

Posts : 124
Join date : 2015-10-07
Location : New Hope, PA

View user profile http://comley.us

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